This pattern was revised in 2007. If you don’t have the latest pattern you may return your used pattern for the new one at ½ price. If your pattern is unused there is no charge, except the shipping cost.
The 2007 edition has an all new, much easier construction. The actual pattern is also improved and an alternative jabot pattern has been added. Interlining instructions are also included.
REVISED EDITION
Is it possible to purchase the revised directions only, as I already have the pattern?
The actual pattern has also changed and there is an additional jabot. For it all to work, you must have both.
ALTERATIONS
Can I alter the swags or jabots?
We can’t give you instructions to alter the width of the swags. The depth alteration instructions are in our Designer’s Digest and Workroom Manual Collection, pages 6A-61 and 6A-62. The jabot alteration instructions are included in the pattern instructions. Depth alteration instructions are given in detail in our 9101V Kingston DVD.
Why can I alter the Kingston depth but not the Empire?
The Kingston fullness area is a straight line. It does not have pleats that angle. However, you can’t alter the Kingston width for the same reason as the Empire.
Can I take 2 pleats out of the Kingston? I need 3 pleats, not 5. If so, how would that be done?
Yes, you can alter the fullness area to be any amount you want. Just place the pleats where you want them. Make sure the seam will finish (after pleats are in) to be the same original size. This is shown in detail in our 9101V Kingston DVD.
JABOTS
I ordered the pattern 9101 with the curved jabot. I thought I might let you know that the returns are wrong on your pattern. You have lines for 3 1/2” return and 5 1/2” returns and the 5 1/2 measures 3 1/2”. Thought you might want to fix the problem before someone gets upset.
The pattern is correct. The return starts at the X. There is an immediate pleat, then a 2” space, then another pleat (the 2” space is part of the return). This creates a 3 1/2” return. The additional 1 1/2” creates the 5 1/2” return. We try to make sure there are no errors in the patterns, but in spite of our efforts sometimes there are. We always appreciate it when someone notifies us.
Is the outside pleat part of the 5 1/2” return? I have been using your patterns for a long time and I just couldn’t see a pleat on the projection area working properly. If you say it will and look good I trust you. If it is not part of the projection then I’m confused.
Fold the pleats in the paper pattern to understand it. The X will be at the corner of the board. The first pleat will lay on front of the board and behind the horn. This gives control to that portion of the jabot. The 2” space and the second pleat is a part of the return. At installation the second fold will fall free at the bottom and hang beautifully.
I am making Kingston Valances for wide width windows. The client wants me to make the jabots 72” in length, because the windows are 66” (vertically) and we plan to mount them about 6” above the window frame. She wants the jabots to come all the way down to the bottom of the window frame. Will it look okay to have the jabots so long?.
Yes, but be sure and use the new jabot that is in the revised copy of the pattern. Better still, if you could switch to a jabot that gives more volume to help balance the width of the valance. Example: the Basic Pleated jabot or the jabot from our pattern 9259.
I don’t have the revised pattern, but I can make a standard jabot that is a full width and pleat it down to 9-10” with a return. If I do this, do I just leave the jabot off the pattern and end with horns on each end?
That will be fine. If you have the Designer’s Digest and Workroom Manual, it tells you how to combine it to the valance. Otherwise, it would be best to plan a small return to the horn. Tuck the return under the jabot when placing to the board. This will give the horn something to hold to. The revised Kingston has a little different construction that is a easier. It also has an additional jabot pattern.
Are the jabots separate from the swag so a contrasting fabric can be used on the back? You advertise that is can be cut as a seamless valance.
All the pattern pieces are separate. You have a choice: you can overlap the paper pieces at the seams and cut the valance seamless, or you can cut some (or all) of the pieces separate and sew them together.
PATTERN DIFFICULTY
I have not used a sewing machine since high school. But I do have patience and I learn really fast. I think the Kingston Valance looks real nice and would go great with the Empire swag in my living room. The window is 72” wide. Can you recommend some patterns for me?
Page 3 of our catalog lists which patterns are easy to construct, moderate to construct, and difficult to construct. The Kingston is THE most difficult to construct. However, we do have a DVD available that will visually take you through the steps also. The 9213, Squire Valance can look formal when made with a formal fabric. It is moderate to construct.
This valance looks too complicated for me. Can I return it?
A pattern can always be returned (to our office only) if it is in original condition. There is a 20% restocking fee.
FABRIC
I have a fabric with stripes and it is a silky, heavier fabric. It will have to be on the straight of grain, I will make the lining on the diagonal. The Empire Valance appears to be a softer valance, but will it fall into those nice folds better than if I used the Kingston? Would the Kingston be more bulk because of the gathered pleats? Which one would you suggest?
The Kingston will have far less bulk problems than the Empire.
My customer has chosen the Kingston Valance for her swag treatment. She has also chosen a crinkled silk fabric. What would be the best solution for cutting the silk, while still maintaining the crinkle effect? Is there a paper backed adhesive that would allow me to trace the pattern, adhere it to the fabric, cut the fabric, and then sew it onto the lining and interlining and then remove the paper?
You need our new, wonderful fabric stabilizer. You iron it to the back of your silk. It will stabilize your crinkles and make your fabric workable. Be sure to test it on a small portion first. You can order fabric stabilizer from Rowley or M’Fay Patterns. See our website for more information.
YARDAGE
On the yardage page for the Kingston, when calculating the “trim” totals, I see that as the size of the swag increases, the yardage decreases. Is this correct?
Yes, it is correct. The seams place at an angle on the horn. They get wider as the depth increases. This makes the bottom of the swag get smaller. This is necessary in order to give so many sizes. Trust it, you will understand when you see the pattern.
STYLE
Would you recommend this window treatment for a window that is 26” across (this would be 1 swag and 2 jabots)?
Yes, it is fine to use only one swag and 2 jabots.
I want to use the Kingston Valance and have it rise slightly at the center. Can I do that? Photo example is enclosed.
That rise is slight. I can tell by the fabric that is was cut for a straight across treatment. Yes, you can do it with no alterations to the pattern as long as the rise is no more than 6”. For a higher rise and for arched shapes we have patterns 9300 and 9301.
Can I adapt this Kingston for a pole?
Please use pattern 9203 Kingston Pole Swag.
I’d like to use a different horn or pleat on the Kingston.
You can substitute most any horn or pleat between the swags, as long as it will fit at the seams.
PROPORTIONS
I am preparing an estimate using your Kingston pattern. What is the short point vs. the long point of the swag depths provided?
There is about a 4” difference between the front, middle of the horn (shortest point) and the deepest area of the swag (long point).
I am making this treatment for a bay window. The side windows measure 30” and the middle 58” (from my board measurements). I also want to make the finished length 26”. The fabric is a thicker fabric, so it will be a little more difficult to get a pretty swag. If I made 2 swags for the side windows would it look too small and squished? Would a 30” swag that is 26” long look better? They will be gathered instead of pleated. Also, how do I alter the pattern to make the 24 - 26” long finished length?
In my opinion, 2 swags for the side windows would be too small for a depth of 26”. I would do 1 swag for the side window and 2 swags for the middle. Depth alterations are in our Designer’s Digest and Workroom Manual, page 6A-61 and on our DVD.
CUTTING
I am cutting the swag on the bias and was wondering if the jabot has to be cut on the bias also. What is the rule, what looks better? Your pattern layout shows the swag on the bias and the jabot upright, but the jabot pattern that I cut out has 2 arrows; lengthwise and upright cut.
The arrows give you the choice for various ways to cut. If a bias arrow is not given, don’t cut on the bias. Exceptions are sometimes made (for necessary reasons), but most often stay with the arrow directions. No, the jabot should not be cut on the bias.
If I have to cut the swag fabric on the upright should I still cut the lining on the bias?
Yes.
Is it alright to railroad the fabric if I am not railroading the lining?
Yes.
I have a large print fabric. What should I do about matching at the seams?
Don’t worry about the seams, they won’t show. Display the fabric on each piece.
INTERLINING
Why do you suggest placing the interlining behind the lining? Wouldn’t it give better results to place it behind the face fabric?
The interlining is placed behind the lining because construction is much easier that way. When the valance is finished the interlining is behind the face fabric and gives the same results as if it has been placed there in the beginning. You can place it behind the face fabric in the beginning, but you can’t secure it the way you can to the lining.
TRIMS
At what point would I sew welting to the face fabric?
After pieces are joined, and just before adding lining (Step 4, page 6).
I will be cutting the swag sections on the bias. I will then be adding a 3” banding to the bottom of the Kingston. Do you recommend the banding to be cut on the straight (or railroad) or cut on the bias?
When cutting a decking (facing) for the swag, I would cut it on the bias for a bias swag. However, since the 9101 is straight across at the bottom, I would railroad the banding, if possible. The swag pleats will still droop nicely and the bottom edge will have more control.
INSTALLATION
I am unsure as to what width I should make my valances. My actual window width for one window is 22 3/4”. I was planning on one swag with jabot ends. My other window is 59” wide and I was plainning on 2 swags with jabot ends. The problem is that neither have woodwork or molding around them. There is just a drywall edge. Should I plan to use the exact window opening as my board width, or should I add extra width, or even subtract a few inches? The picture on the pattern front shows it with woodwork, and I don’t imagine seeing just the drywall along the inside edge will look very nice.
It isn’t necessary to have the woodwork. For an outside mount, I would add 1 1/2” at each side of the window.
BAY WINDOWS
I’m using the Kingston for a bay window. Please advise.
Bay window boards are usually made in one piece. The valance should be made in one piece, although a horn should be at the inside corners. You can attach it to the board before or after the board is installed. Subtract 1 1/2” from each end of the board size only. The swag sizes will be different. First you must figure the side swags size. Then you figure the middle swag size, keeping them as close to the same size as possible.If you attach it after installation use Velcro®.
