This pattern was revised in 2001. If you don’t have the latest pattern you may return your used pattern for a new one at 1/2 price. If your pattern is unused there is no charge, except shipping cost.
Is the Estelle 9261 pattern very different from the Squire pattern 9213?
The Estelle is the same swag as the Squire, except there is no center dip. The swags depths are shorter on the Estelle and the horns are slightly different. The jabots are different.
ALTERATIONS
I need the swag to be wider, how can I alter it?
We cannot give you instructions to alter the swag in width. To go beyond sizes given would require the shape and size of the pattern and the pleat angles to change. There is no formula for a quick fix.
I need the swag to be shorter in depth, how can I alter it?
We don’t recommend altering the depth more than trimming away the 2” dip at the bottom. 9261 pattern is the same swag without the dip, but depths are 15” to 18”.
I have your Squire Pole Swag pattern 9271. I have a client that wants a small Squire valance on a board (like 9213). Can I just draw a straight line across the top of the pole swag pattern to convert it to a board mount?
The 9271 is designed to have a droop area. It can’t board mount unless you just lay an extra piece of fabric at the back to cover the droop area. We have 9213. 9261 is the same swag only shorter and without the Squire dip.
Can I alter the Squire jabot?
It would involve changing the bottom curve shape. We cannot help you with that.
JABOT
Which is the thin jabot and which is the Squire jabot?
The new Squire jabot is more ornate. It is used on the photo cover sheet. The original thin jabot is also still included in the package.
I’m looking at the drawn illustrations on the cover of the stapled directions. Please let me know if I am identifying them correctly. I believe the top illustration has squire jabots, the bottom left illustration has two horns and two thin jabots on each side, and the illustration on the bottom right ends with two horns and two returns WITH FULLNESS? I’m trying to tell the difference between returns with fullness and without fullness. Is there an illustration of returns with no fullness?
Yes, the top sketch is the Squire jabot. The return with fullness has a pleat. The return without fullness is not shown. It has no pleat, its just a flat side. You don’t’ see it from the front view very much.
Can the Squire jabot be used with other valances?
Yes, instructions are included to make it separate.
Now that I have received the new pattern I am unsure if I can use the jabot separately and still have it appear like the pattern picture. That is why I am writing to you. Your thoughts would be appreciated. I do not want to lose the shape of the valance. The shape is what drew the client to it.
Please look on page 9 of the instruction book, which shows you how to use the jabot separately.
Is the color photo on line of the squire valance with four scallops and beautiful beaded trim (green print with purple lining) using the fuller squire jabot and the fabric is just rolled into a horn shape. When I compare to the 3 sketches on the black and white pattern notes in the catalog - is the green purple the one the window on the upper left with three swags and shown with no fringe or is it the sketch in the bottom with two swags and trim?
The Squire can be made with any number of swag sections you want. The photo shows the Squire jabot. The black and white shows a drawing of the Squire jabot and one using a simple return instead of the jabot. You can do it either way.
I am working on the Squire pattern and want to install on a 1x2 board attached to the back wall. Could I leave returns off the pattern and sew close to the end horns so it could be flush against the wall or should I use a small return less that 1 1/2”?
You need to use the return pattern simply cut at the “no return” line. Follow instructions.
Do you make the jabot wider when you use the Squire jabot on the Estelle valance (last page in the Estelle instruction book). My Squire jabot on has a 4” projection and a 6”. I’m thinking you use the 6” projection to get all 3 reveals on the jabot when it lays flat?
No, the design shown on the page is using the jabot as is. When changes to the pattern is necessary, I will always tell you in the instructions. Look at the photo on the cover. That is the how the jabot will look even when using it on the Estelle.
DESIGN
The customer has three windows next to each other with 8” between each window. The total width is 206”. She mentioned wanting it to be one continuous window treatment. (As opposed to three separate ones). For such a wide treatment would I do them in pieces and butt them together when I get to the house to install? If so, can it be done in a way in which it ends up looking like it’s one piece. The customer requested a jabot in between each window as well as one at each end. In other words, from left to right she wants jabot then four swags then the last jabot. Do you have jabot suggestions that looks good in between the swags that works with this pattern?
Your jabots between windows need to be made separately. This means your swags can be in three units. Jabots between windows need to have a “V” shape. The 9256 jabot is a possibility, or you could cut a “V” shape and simply gather the top. The side jabots can be similar or you could still use the Squire jabots there. If making your swags in groups of four, plan a small return at each end that can place under the jabots (the jabots will cover them). This will help to make the unit look as it were one.
FABRIC
We have a client who wants a top treatment for her dining room. We were wondering if the Squire valance pattern is suitable for plaid fabric or would it look strange? We know stripes don’t work but we weren’t sure about plaid.
Plaids are still stripes, only more. They will fall at a variety of angles. More so on the Squire jabot. It can possibly work for you with the thin jabot.
SWAG SIZE
I do not understand how to figure for my swag size. Can you please explain it to me?
Please click here for our “How to Read Yardage” page and scroll down to “figuring swag size”. This is explained in detail.
The yardage chart says to stay within 14” to 18” width range. My window is 44” wide. So I am almost 1/2” short on the width range. Can I make up the difference in the pleats?
Make your three swag 13 3/4” wide.
3 x 13 3/4 = 41 1/4” +
3” jabots =
44 1/4”
You can ease in the extra 1/4” into the jabots.
BANDING
Can a squire valance be easily banded without any pulling, or is the angle of the point too steep?
The Squire has an intricate shape. Banding as much as 1” wide or more needs to be applied as instructed in our Workroom Manual, Chapter 4E.
INTERLINING
I have almost finished the valance and am making the pleats. My valance has been interlined, with interlining attached to the lining. It is very bulky at the pleats, how can I eliminate some of this bulk? Don’t think I can even machine stitch pleats in place and I am worried it will be very difficult to staple to board.
You need to trim the interlining away in the pleat areas. Trim enough away so it is not in the board mount areas.
Do I need to attach it to anything or can I just cut it? I did not do the Step 7 where it mentions baste 1-1/2” at board line, should I cut the interlining there?
Yes, you can go in at the top. You can tack the interlining to the lining if you feel the need to. I usually do. Trim the interlining away in the jabot areas also.
CUTTING
The pattern calls for the swags to be cut on the bias, but the horns are cut on the straight grain. I’m using a silk fabric, so while the swags look fine on the bias, I’m getting a color distortion by cutting the horns on the straight grain. Before I get too far and waste a bunch of fabric, will it work to cut the horns on the bias also, or should I cut the swags on the straight grain? The color distortion goes away if the horns are on the bias, but I’m not sure whether the horns will hang smoothly or if they’ll stretch and sag from the weight of the beaded trim I’m using along the bottom. Suggestions?
Do not cut the horns on the bias. It will be best to cut everything upright. You can still cut the swag lining on the bias. That will help it to hang better.
The Designer has chosen a large multi check silk for the fabric. I planned on using the Squire jabot. When I placed the pattern on the fabric I noticed the horn section will appear to be on the bias. Can you suggest another jabot that can be used so it’s on the straight of grain?
Any similar jabot would have the same problem. One solution is: Fold your paper pattern as it is pleated. Draw a line at the inside crease. Cut the pattern at that line, add a seam allowance. You can then cut that portion of the jabot on the straight grain. Cut the jabot lining as usual, so it won’t have the extra seam.
CONSTRUCTION
I’m using the Squire jabot separately from the valance. My question is will the Swag end the treatment and I will lay the jabot over the end of the board or do I need to add a return to the swag then add the Squire jabot over the return?
It would be best to add a small return to slip under the jabot. That will help cover a gap. Or you could just make the swag a little wider on that side. Add the extra to the jabot as shown on page 9.
I just purchased the Squire valance and am getting ready to sew all the pieces together. However, I don’t see how the horns are going to form. I’ve done the Kingston Valance before and remember having to sew a certain step to form the horn with turning a portion of the horn inside out. Am I supposed to do this with this pattern as well? I also remember sewing the swags together that were in-between the horns and then sewing the horns together. Please help me as I’ve invested over $375 in fabrics and several hours.
The Squire pattern is not constructed like the Kingston. The Squire is much easier. Forget everything you know about the Kingston and simply follow the Squire instructions as they are given. Step 10, page 8 forms the horns.
BAY WINDOWS
I am considering the Squire for a bay window. Will it work?
Yes, the Squire works great for a bay window. You will need to make a bay window mount board. Plan for a horn to be at each corner. Subtract 1 1/2” from each end of the board only. Make the valance as one piece. The outside swags may need to be different sizes from the center ones.
Please advise me as to how to determine the appropriate width for the swags in a bay window. The side angle window is 29”. I’ve subtracted 1.5” for the projection and 1.5” for the jabot so I’m left with 26”. Should I alter the pattern and cut 2 @ 13”? The back window measures 80 1/2” so I’ve deducted 3” for projection clearance and I’m left with 77 1/2”, should I cut 5 @ 15 1/2”?
I can’t guarantee you projection math. It is always best to make the mount board first, make sure it fits, then measure the front for the valance size. The swag is not easy to alter. We can’t give you instructions. Try to stay within the size limits.
